Tomboy Cardigan

Don't you love it when you put two and two together and get a perfect answer? It was exactly the case for my design idea and Contiguous Sleeves method developed by Susie Myers.

Please welcome my unisex design, Tomboy Cardigan, published by Classic Elite yarns in Web Letter Issue 214.

Skill Level: Intermediate
SIZES
Child 2T (4T, 6, 8, 10). Shown in size 4T.
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Chest: 22¾ (25¼, 27¼, 28½, 30½)”, buttoned
YARN
Chesapeake by Classic Elite Yarns, Verde Collection
(50% organic cotton, 50% merino; 50 g = approx 103 yards)
4 (4, 6, 6, 7) balls 5925, Tokyo Rose
NEEDLES
Circular needle (24”) in size US 7 (4.5 mm) or size to obtain gauge.
Knitting needles in size US 6 (4 mm) for neck finishing
Double pointed needles (dpns) in sizes US 6 and 7 (4 and 4.5 mm) for sleeves
OTHER MATERIALS
4 Stitch markers
Waste yarn or stitch holders
6 (6, 7, 7, 8) ¾” buttons
GAUGE
20 sts and 26 rows = 4” in St st using larger needle. Take time to save time, check your gauge.

 Tomboy Vest/Cardigan is completely seamless and is worked from top down using “contiguous set-in sleeves” technique, that allows shoulder shaping and set-in sleeves shaping without using short rows.  Sleeves are worked at the same time as the rest of the vest.

The published version of the pattern only has one option, what you see is what you get. However, the original design had options for sleeveless vest, for long sleeved cardigan, and for some simple cable work. I am posting all those options here for those that are looking to customize their garment.

Sleeveless Vest Version:

Work as per pattern to the point where you have to rearrange markers.

All sizes: Move your stitch markers to have the following stitch count between markers:

2T: 13/6/45/6/13

4T: 13/6/47/6/13

6: 14/6/51/6/14

8: 14/6/53/6/14

10: 15/6/57/6/15

Then, follow this instructions: 

RIGHT FRONT SHAPING:

Sizes 2T – 6 only:

Row 1 (RS): work in pattern, and at the end of this row cast on 13 (15, 17) sts for right front.  Cast on stitches will form seed stitch button band and continue into the ribbing.

Row 2 (WS): Turn your work, then seed stitch first 5 sts [(k1, p1) x2, k1], (k2, p2) x3, k2, purl to the stitch marker, put the next 6 sts between the markers on hold.

Row 3 (RS): Turn your work again and knit to last 19 sts, (p2, k2) x3, p2, (k1, p1) x2, k1.

Row 4 (WS): Turn your work, then seed stitch 5 sts, (k2, p2) x3, k2, purl to the end.

Row 5 (RS, first buttonhole row for girls only): work in pattern to last 5 sts, then k1, p1, yo, p2tog, k1. All other buttonholes are worked in this manner every 2 (2.5, 2.5) inches apart or on every 14^th (18^th, 18^th) row.

Row 6 (WS): work in pattern

Sizes 8 and 10 only:

Row 1 (RS): kfb, work in pattern to the last sts, kfb

Row 2 (WS):  K2 (size 8) and k1 (size 10), work in pattern to the first stitch marker, put the next 6 sts on hold, turn your work.

Row 3(RS): work in pattern on right front to the last stitch, kfb.

Row 4 (WS): p1, k2 (size 8) and k2 (size 10), purl to the end.

Row 5 (RS): work in pattern, and at the end of this row cast on 16 (17) sts for right front.  Cast on stitches will form seed stitch button band and continue into the ribbing.

Row 6 (WS): Turn your work, then seed stitch first 5 sts [(k1, p1) x2, k1], (k2, p2) x3, k2, purl to the end.

Row 7 (RS): Turn your work again and knit to last 19 sts, (p2, k2) x3, p2, (k1, p1) x2, k1.

Row 8 (WS): Turn your work, then seed stitch 5 sts, (k2, p2) x3, k2, purl to the end.

Row 9 (RS, first buttonhole row for girls only): work in pattern to last 5 sts, then k1, p1, yo, p2tog, k1. All other buttonholes are worked in this manner every 2.5 (3) inches apart or on every 18^th (22^nd) row.

Row 10 (WS): work in pattern

All sizes: Continue working in the established pattern for another 16 (18, 20, 18, 22) rows

Underarm shaping:

Row 1(RS): k1, m1, pattern to the end

Row 2(WS): purl

Repeat these two rows 3(4, 4, 4, 4) more times. 4 (5, 5, 5, 5) stitches added to the right front.

Break yarn. Slip stitches onto the waste yarn/holder.

LEFT FRONT SHAPING:

Slip left front stitches onto the right needle; put the next 6 sts between markers on hold. Turn your work so that the WS faces you, attach yarn.

Sizes 2T – 6 only:

Row 1 (WS): work in pattern, and at the end of this row cast on 13 (15, 17) sts for left front.  Cast on stitches will form seed stitch button band and continue into the ribbing.

Row 2 (RS): Turn your work, then seed stitch first 5 sts [(k1, p1) x2, k1], (p2, k2) x3, p2, knit to the end.

Row 3 (WS): Turn your work again and purl to last 19 sts, (k2, p2) x3, k2, (k1, p1) x2, k1.

Row 4 (RS): Turn your work, then seed stitch 5 sts, (p2, k2) x3, p2, knit to the end.

Row 5 (WS): work in pattern

Row 6 (RS, first buttonhole row for boys only): k1, p1, yo, p2tog, k1, work in pattern to the end. All other buttonholes are worked in this manner every 2 (2.5, 2.5) inches apart or on every 14^th (18^th, 18^th) row.

Sizes 8 and 10 only:

Row 1 (WS): work in pattern to the end

Row 2 (RS):  kfb, work in pattern to the end

Row 3 (WS): work in pattern to the end, and at the end of this row cast on 16 (17) sts for left front.  Cast on stitches will form seed stitch button band and continue into the ribbing.

Row 4 (RS): seed stitch first 5 sts [(k1, p1) x2, k1], (p2, k2) x3, p2, knit to the end.

Row 5 (WS): purl to last 19 sts, (k2, p2) x3, k2, (k1, p1) x2, k1.

Row 6 (RS): as row 4

Row 7 (WS): as row 5

Row 8 (RS, first buttonhole row for boys only): k1, p1, yo, p2tog, k1, work in pattern to the end. All other buttonholes are worked in this manner every 2.5 (3) inches apart or on every 18^th (22^nd) row.

Row 9 (WS): work in pattern

All sizes: Continue working in the established pattern for another 15 (17, 19, 18, 22) rows.

Underarm shaping:

Row 1(RS): knit to 1 sts before the end, m1, k1

Row 2(WS): purl

Repeat these two rows 3(4, 4, 4, 4) more times. 4 (5, 5, 5, 5) stitches added to the right front.

Do not break yarn. Slip stitches onto the waste yarn/holder.

BACK SHAPING:

(WS): attach new ball of yarn and work the back stitches in stockinette stitch for the next 21 (23, 25, 27, 31) rows total, ending with WS.

Underarm shaping:

Row 1(RS): k1, m1, knit to 1 stitch before the end of the row, m1, k1

Row 2(WS): purl

Repeat these two rows 3 (4, 4, 4, 4) more times. 8 (10, 10, 10, 10) stitches added to the back.

Break yarn. Slip stitches onto the waste yarn/holder.

Joining fronts and back together:

(RS): Starting from the left front, work in pattern across the left front, cast on 3 (4, 4, 6, 6) sts, work across the back piece, cast on 3 (4, 4 6, 6) sts, work in pattern across the right front.

Total stitch count should be: 119 (131, 141, 147, 159) sts.

Work the rest as per pattern.

SLEEVES:

1. Vest

Transfer 6 sleeves stitches from holder to a spare set of needles.  Then using smaller sized needles and starting from the middle of the underarm, attach yarn and pick up 3 sts for every 4 rows around the armholes, knitting 6 sleeves stitches as you come to them. Place marker at the middle of the underarm, and join for knitting in the round.

For 2x2 rib finish: On your next round, adjust number of stitches to be a multiple of 4.  Then work in 2x2 rib for ~1 inch. Bind off in pattern.

For seed stitch finish: On your next round, adjust number of stitches to be an odd number.  Then work in seed stitch for ~1 inch. Bind off in pattern.

2. Long Sleeves

Short sleeved vest/long sleeved cardigan:

Transfer 32 (34, 36, 40, 42) sleeve sts from holder/waste yarn onto smaller sized needles.

For 2x2 rib finish: Attach yarn, and pick up 6 (8, 10, 10, 10) sts at the underarm area. Place marker in the center of the underarm, and join for knitting in the round. Stitch count should be 38 (42, 46, 50, 52) sts.

Decrease round: k1, skp, knit to 3 sts before the marker, k2tog, k1.

Stitch count should be 36 (40, 44, 48, 50) sts.

For long sleeves: work in stockinette stitch, repeating decrease rnd 2 (4, 4, 4, 5) more times every 2 inches. Work in pattern till sleeve measures about 7 (9, 10, 11, 12) inches from the underarm.

Sleeve cuff: Change to smaller needles and work in 2x2 rib for ~1.5 inches. Bind off in pattern.

For seed stitch finish: Attach yarn, and pick up 5 (7, 7, 9, 9) sts. Total stitch count should be 37 (41, 43, 49, 51) sts. Work in seed stitch for ~ 1-1.5 inches. Bind off in pattern.

Decrease round: k1, skp, knit to 3 sts before the marker, k2tog, k1.

Stitch count should be 35 (39, 41, 47, 49) sts.

For long sleeves: work in stockinette stitch, repeating decrease rnd 2 (4, 4, 4, 5) more times every 2 inches. Work in pattern till sleeve measures about 7 (9, 10, 11, 12) inches from the underarm.

Sleeve cuff: Change to smaller needles and work in seed stitch for ~1.5 inches. Bind off in pattern.

CABLE CHARTS:

You can start your cables after you have cast on front stitches and worked for at least few rows (0.5-1 inch). 

Each cable repeat is 16 rows. Repeat it 2-3 times or more, if desired.

Left Front Cables mirror Right Front Cables.

 Written cable instructions:

Left Front Cables:

Row 1 (RS): p2, 2/1 LPC, 2/1 RPC, p2, k2, p2.
Row 2 (WS): k2, p2, k3, p4, k3.
Row 3 (RS): p3, 2/2 RC, p3, k2, p2.
Row 4 (WS): k2, p2, k3, p4, k3.
Row 5 (RS): p2, 2/1 RPC, 2/1 LPC, p2, k2, p2.
Row 6 (WS): [k2, p2] x 3, k2.
Row 7 (RS): [p2, k2] x 3, p2.
Row 8 (WS): [k2, p2] x 3, k2.
Row 9 (RS): p2, k2, p2, 2/1 LPC, 2/1 RPC, p2.
Row 10 (WS): k3, p4, k3, p2, k2.
Row 11 (RS): p2, k2, p3, 2/2 RC, p3.
Row 12 (WS): k3, p4, k3, p2, k2.
Row 13 (RS): p2, k2, p2, 2/1 RPC, 2/1 LPC, p2.
Row 14 (WS): [k2, p2] x 3, k2.
Row 15 (RS): [p2, k2] x 3, p2.
Row 16 (WS): [k2, p2] x 3, k2. 

Right Front Cables:

Row 1 (RS): p2, k2, p2, 2/1 LPC, 2/1 RPC, p2.
Row 2 (WS): k3, p4, k3, p2, k2.
Row 3 (RS): p2, k2, p3, 2/2 RC, p3.
Row 4 (WS): k3, p4, k3, p2, k2.
Row 5 (RS): p2, k2, p2, 2/1 RPC, 2/1 LPC, p2.
Row 6 (WS): [k2, p2] x 3, k2.
Row 7 (RS): [p2, k2] x 3, p2.
Row 8 (WS): [k2, p2] x 3, k2.
Row 9 (RS): p2, 2/1 LPC, 2/1 RPC, p2, k2, p2.
Row 10 (WS): k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, p4, k3.
Row 11 (RS): p3, 2/2 RC, p3, k2, p2.
Row 12 (WS): k2, p2, k3, p4, k3.
Row 13 (RS): p2, 2/1 RPC, 2/1 LPC, p2, k2, p2.
Row 14 (WS): [k2, p2] x 3, k2.
Row 15 (RS): [p2, k2] x 3, p2.
Row 16 (WS): [k2, p2] x 3, k2.

KEY:

k=knit;
p = purl;
2/2 RC = slip 2 sts to cable needle, hold to the back, k2, then k2 from cable needle;
2/2 LC = slip 2 sts to cable needle, hold at front, k2, then k2 from cable needle;
2/1 RPC = slip 1 st to cable needle, hold to back, k2, then p1 from cable needle;
2/1 LPC = slip 2 sts to cable needle, hold at front, p1, then k2 from cable needle.