Don't you love it when you put two and two together and get a perfect answer? It was exactly the case for my design idea and Contiguous Sleeves method developed by Susie Myers.
Please welcome my unisex design, Tomboy Cardigan, published by Classic Elite yarns in Web Letter Issue 214.
Skill Level: Intermediate
SIZES
Child 2T (4T, 6, 8, 10). Shown in size 4T.
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
Chest: 22¾ (25¼, 27¼, 28½, 30½)”, buttoned
YARN
Chesapeake by Classic Elite Yarns, Verde Collection
(50% organic cotton, 50% merino; 50 g = approx 103 yards)
4 (4, 6, 6, 7) balls 5925, Tokyo Rose
NEEDLES
Circular needle (24”) in size US 7 (4.5 mm) or size to obtain gauge.
Knitting needles in size US 6 (4 mm) for neck finishing
Double pointed needles (dpns) in sizes US 6 and 7 (4 and 4.5 mm) for sleeves
OTHER MATERIALS
4 Stitch markers
Waste yarn or stitch holders
6 (6, 7, 7, 8) ¾” buttons
GAUGE
20 sts and 26 rows = 4” in St st using larger needle. Take time to save time, check your gauge.
Tomboy Vest/Cardigan is completely seamless and is worked from top down using “contiguous set-in sleeves” technique, that allows shoulder shaping and set-in sleeves shaping without using short rows. Sleeves are worked at the same time as the rest of the vest.
Sleeveless Vest Version:
Work as per pattern to the point where you have to rearrange markers.
All sizes: Move your stitch markers to have the following
stitch count between markers:
2T:
13/6/45/6/13
4T:
13/6/47/6/13
6:
14/6/51/6/14
8:
14/6/53/6/14
10:
15/6/57/6/15
Then, follow this instructions:
RIGHT FRONT SHAPING:
Sizes 2T – 6 only:
Row 1 (RS): work in pattern, and at the
end of this row cast on 13 (15, 17) sts for right front. Cast on stitches will form seed stitch button
band and continue into the ribbing.
Row 2 (WS): Turn your work, then seed
stitch first 5 sts [(k1, p1) x2, k1], (k2, p2) x3, k2, purl to the stitch
marker, put the next 6 sts between the markers on hold.
Row 3 (RS): Turn your work again and knit
to last 19 sts, (p2, k2) x3, p2, (k1, p1) x2, k1.
Row 4 (WS): Turn your work, then seed
stitch 5 sts, (k2, p2) x3, k2, purl to the end.
Row 5 (RS, first buttonhole
row for girls only):
work in pattern to last 5 sts, then k1, p1, yo, p2tog, k1. All other
buttonholes are worked in this manner every 2 (2.5, 2.5) inches apart or on
every 14th (18th, 18th) row.
Row 6 (WS): work in pattern
Sizes 8 and 10 only:
Row 1 (RS): kfb, work in pattern to the
last sts, kfb
Row 2 (WS): K2 (size 8)
and k1 (size 10), work in pattern to the first stitch marker, put the next 6
sts on hold, turn your work.
Row 3(RS): work in pattern on right
front to the last stitch, kfb.
Row 4 (WS): p1, k2 (size 8) and k2 (size
10), purl to the end.
Row 5 (RS): work in pattern, and at the
end of this row cast on 16 (17) sts for right front. Cast on stitches will form seed stitch button
band and continue into the ribbing.
Row 6 (WS): Turn your work, then seed
stitch first 5 sts [(k1, p1) x2, k1], (k2, p2) x3, k2, purl to the end.
Row 7 (RS): Turn your work again and
knit to last 19 sts, (p2, k2) x3, p2, (k1, p1) x2, k1.
Row 8 (WS): Turn your work, then seed
stitch 5 sts, (k2, p2) x3, k2, purl to the end.
Row 9 (RS, first buttonhole
row for girls only):
work in pattern to last 5 sts, then k1, p1, yo, p2tog, k1. All other
buttonholes are worked in this manner every 2.5 (3) inches apart or on every 18th
(22nd) row.
Row 10 (WS): work in pattern
All sizes: Continue working in the
established pattern for another 16 (18, 20, 18, 22) rows
Underarm
shaping:
Row 1(RS): k1, m1, pattern to the end
Row 2(WS): purl
Repeat
these two rows 3(4, 4, 4, 4) more times. 4 (5, 5, 5, 5) stitches added to the
right front.
Break yarn. Slip stitches onto the waste
yarn/holder.
LEFT FRONT SHAPING:
Slip
left front stitches onto the right needle; put the next 6 sts between markers
on hold. Turn your work so that the WS faces you, attach yarn.
Sizes 2T – 6 only:
Row 1 (WS): work in pattern, and at the
end of this row cast on 13 (15, 17) sts for left front. Cast on stitches will form seed stitch button
band and continue into the ribbing.
Row 2 (RS): Turn your work, then seed
stitch first 5 sts [(k1, p1) x2, k1], (p2, k2) x3, p2, knit to the end.
Row 3 (WS): Turn your work again and purl
to last 19 sts, (k2, p2) x3, k2, (k1, p1) x2, k1.
Row 4 (RS): Turn your work, then seed
stitch 5 sts, (p2, k2) x3, p2, knit to the end.
Row 5 (WS): work in pattern
Row 6 (RS, first buttonhole
row for boys only):
k1, p1, yo, p2tog, k1, work in pattern to the end. All other buttonholes are
worked in this manner every 2 (2.5, 2.5) inches apart or on every 14th
(18th, 18th) row.
Sizes 8 and 10 only:
Row 1 (WS): work in pattern to the end
Row 2 (RS): kfb, work in pattern to the end
Row 3 (WS): work in pattern to the end, and
at the end of this row cast on 16 (17) sts for left front. Cast on stitches will form seed stitch button
band and continue into the ribbing.
Row 4 (RS): seed stitch first 5 sts
[(k1, p1) x2, k1], (p2, k2) x3, p2, knit to the end.
Row 5 (WS): purl to last 19 sts, (k2, p2)
x3, k2, (k1, p1) x2, k1.
Row 6 (RS): as row 4
Row 7 (WS): as row 5
Row 8 (RS, first buttonhole
row for boys only):
k1, p1, yo, p2tog, k1, work in pattern to the end. All other buttonholes are
worked in this manner every 2.5 (3) inches apart or on every 18th
(22nd) row.
Row 9 (WS): work in pattern
All sizes: Continue working in the
established pattern for another 15 (17, 19, 18, 22) rows.
Underarm shaping:
Row 1(RS): knit to 1 sts before the
end, m1, k1
Row 2(WS): purl
Repeat
these two rows 3(4, 4, 4, 4) more times. 4 (5, 5, 5, 5) stitches added to the
right front.
Do not break
yarn. Slip
stitches onto the waste yarn/holder.
BACK
SHAPING:
(WS): attach new ball of yarn and
work the back stitches in stockinette stitch for the next 21 (23, 25, 27, 31)
rows total, ending with WS.
Underarm
shaping:
Row 1(RS): k1, m1, knit to 1 stitch
before the end of the row, m1, k1
Row 2(WS): purl
Repeat
these two rows 3 (4, 4, 4, 4) more times. 8 (10, 10, 10, 10) stitches added to
the back.
Break yarn. Slip stitches onto the waste
yarn/holder.
Joining fronts and back
together:
(RS):
Starting from the left front, work in pattern across the left front, cast on 3
(4, 4, 6, 6) sts, work across the back piece, cast on 3 (4, 4 6, 6) sts, work
in pattern across the right front.
Total
stitch count should be: 119 (131, 141, 147, 159) sts.
SLEEVES:
1. Vest
Transfer
6 sleeves stitches from holder to a spare set of needles. Then using smaller sized needles and starting
from the middle of the underarm, attach yarn and pick up 3 sts for every 4 rows
around the armholes, knitting 6 sleeves stitches as you come to them. Place
marker at the middle of the underarm, and join for knitting in the round.
For 2x2 rib finish: On your next round, adjust
number of stitches to be a multiple of 4. Then work in 2x2 rib for ~1 inch. Bind off in
pattern.
For seed stitch finish: On your next round, adjust
number of stitches to be an odd number.
Then work in seed stitch for ~1 inch. Bind off in pattern.
2. Long Sleeves
Short sleeved vest/long sleeved cardigan:
Transfer
32 (34, 36, 40, 42) sleeve sts from holder/waste yarn onto smaller sized
needles.
For 2x2 rib
finish:
Attach yarn, and pick up 6 (8, 10, 10, 10) sts at the underarm area. Place
marker in the center of the underarm, and join for knitting in the round.
Stitch count should be 38 (42, 46, 50, 52) sts.
Decrease round: k1, skp, knit to 3 sts
before the marker, k2tog, k1.
Stitch
count should be 36 (40, 44, 48, 50) sts.
For long sleeves:
work in stockinette stitch, repeating decrease rnd 2 (4, 4, 4, 5) more times
every 2 inches. Work in pattern till sleeve measures about 7 (9, 10, 11, 12)
inches from the underarm.
Sleeve
cuff: Change to smaller needles and work in 2x2 rib for ~1.5 inches. Bind off
in pattern.
For seed stitch
finish: Attach yarn, and pick up 5 (7,
7, 9, 9) sts. Total stitch count should be 37 (41, 43, 49, 51) sts. Work in
seed stitch for ~ 1-1.5 inches. Bind off in pattern.
Decrease round: k1, skp, knit to 3 sts
before the marker, k2tog, k1.
Stitch
count should be 35 (39, 41, 47, 49) sts.
For long sleeves:
work in stockinette stitch, repeating decrease rnd 2 (4, 4, 4, 5) more times
every 2 inches. Work in pattern till sleeve measures about 7 (9, 10, 11, 12)
inches from the underarm.
Sleeve
cuff: Change to smaller needles and work in seed stitch for ~1.5 inches. Bind
off in pattern.
CABLE CHARTS:
You can start your cables after you have cast on front stitches and worked for at least few rows (0.5-1 inch).
Each cable repeat is 16 rows. Repeat it 2-3 times or more, if desired.
Left Front Cables mirror Right Front Cables.
Written cable instructions:
Left Front Cables:
Row 1 (RS): p2, 2/1 LPC, 2/1 RPC, p2, k2, p2.
Row 2 (WS): k2, p2, k3, p4, k3.
Row 3 (RS): p3, 2/2 RC, p3, k2, p2.
Row 4 (WS): k2, p2, k3, p4, k3.
Row 5 (RS): p2, 2/1 RPC, 2/1 LPC, p2, k2, p2.
Row 6 (WS): [k2, p2] x 3, k2.
Row 7 (RS): [p2, k2] x 3, p2.
Row 8 (WS): [k2, p2] x 3, k2.
Row 9 (RS): p2, k2, p2, 2/1 LPC, 2/1 RPC, p2.
Row 10 (WS): k3, p4, k3, p2, k2.
Row 11 (RS): p2, k2, p3, 2/2 RC, p3.
Row 12 (WS): k3, p4, k3, p2, k2.
Row 13 (RS): p2, k2, p2, 2/1 RPC, 2/1 LPC, p2.
Row 14 (WS): [k2, p2] x 3, k2.
Row 15 (RS): [p2, k2] x 3, p2.
Row 16 (WS): [k2, p2] x 3, k2.
Right Front Cables:
Row 1 (RS): p2, k2, p2, 2/1 LPC, 2/1 RPC, p2.
Row 2 (WS): k3, p4, k3, p2, k2.
Row 3 (RS): p2, k2, p3, 2/2 RC, p3.
Row 4 (WS): k3, p4, k3, p2, k2.
Row 5 (RS): p2, k2, p2, 2/1 RPC, 2/1 LPC, p2.
Row 6 (WS): [k2, p2] x 3, k2.
Row 7 (RS): [p2, k2] x 3, p2.
Row 8 (WS): [k2, p2] x 3, k2.
Row 9 (RS): p2, 2/1 LPC, 2/1 RPC, p2, k2, p2.
Row 10 (WS): k2, p2, k1, p1, k1, p4, k3.
Row 11 (RS): p3, 2/2 RC, p3, k2, p2.
Row 12 (WS): k2, p2, k3, p4, k3.
Row 13 (RS): p2, 2/1 RPC, 2/1 LPC, p2, k2, p2.
Row 14 (WS): [k2, p2] x 3, k2.
Row 15 (RS): [p2, k2] x 3, p2.
Row 16 (WS): [k2, p2] x 3, k2.
KEY:
k=knit;
p = purl;
2/2 RC = slip 2 sts to cable needle, hold to the back, k2, then k2 from cable needle;
2/2 LC = slip 2 sts to cable needle, hold at front, k2, then k2 from cable needle;
2/1 RPC = slip 1 st to cable needle, hold to back, k2, then p1 from cable needle;
2/1 LPC = slip 2 sts to cable needle, hold at front, p1, then k2 from cable needle.
Very nice!!! Sadly, my youngest is too big for the pattern or I'd be tempted to make it!
ReplyDeleteGorgeous!! I think DD needs the long sleeve cabled version for next winter :) Thanks for posting all the extra pattern version :)
ReplyDeleteIn your pattern tomboy on Ravelry, I think you made a mistake. You miss "x2" in this sentence :
ReplyDelete"All Sizes, Shape Underarm (RS):
Row 1 (RS): [Work to 1 st before marker, m1, k1, slm, work across sleeve, slm, k1,
m1], work to the end – 4 sts inc’d."